Hints and Tips
- Motorcycle Track Days - Hints and Tips to Make Sure Your Day is Successful
- Essential safety riding gear
- Basic info on helmets
- How to maintain your chain & sprocket
- Safety riding tips - IMPORTANT
- Oh, No! It`s Raining! Hints & Tips for Riding in the Rain
- FIRST TIME RIDERS
- ATV Tyre selection
- Ugly fish eyewear
Motorcycle Track Days - Hints and Tips to Make Sure Your Day is Successful
Sportbike track days are becoming more and more popular. Twenty years ago it was nearly impossible to ride your street-legal motorcycle on an actual racetrack, but today you can find dozens of organizations and tracks that put on track days. My favourite one is TRACK-DAZE. Once you`ve done a day of open practice at a racetrack, you may not go back to riding on the street. With no cops, no cars, no stoplights, and no speed limits, riding at a track can quickly become addicting.
Here are a few tips, from a track day veteran, to help you have a successful and fun motorcycle track day:
- Don`t ride your bike to the track. While a few foolhardy individuals ride their bikes to track days, its really a bad idea. If you crash, how will you get home? How will you carry your tools and supplies for the day? And you`ll likely be exhausted at the end of the day, the last thing you`ll want to do is duke it out with the cages on the freeway for two hours. Put your bike in the back of a pickup truck or on a trailer, you`ll be glad you did.
- Don`t be late. Get to the track nice and early, particularly if this is your first time. It will take a few minutes to figure out where to set you your pit, and to locate registration and tech inspection. You`ll probably need a few minutes for last minute bike preparation as well. It`s way better to have a little extra time, rather than be hurried and risk forgetting something.
- Make sure you have medical insurance. While you`re unlikely to run into a car out on the track, there`s a small chance you`ll go down. People have crashed at every track day I`ve ever been to, and chances are your club or organization will require that you have current medical insurance.
- Prepare yourself. Get a good night`s sleep. Don`t drink alcohol for at least 8 hours prior to getting on the track. Make sure you`re in decent medical condition, and good mental condition as well. Your fun will come to a rapid end if you`re worrying about that paternity suit while entering Turn One at 240 kilometers per hour.
- Bring things to make your day relatively comfortable. Chairs, a cooler, maybe a small canopy or shade structure if you have one. You`ll have some down-time in between track sessions, and its nice to have a place to sit down and relax for a few minutes. Bring some light food and snacks, and enough drinks to keep you hydrated thru the day, especially if its going to be a hot one.
- Prepare your bike. Check with your local track day organization to see what their bike requirements are.
Common requirements include:- New or nearly new tires
- Tape off or remove lights, mirrors, indicators.
- Remove license plate.
- Duct tape over wheel weights.
- In the past many track day organizers required bikes to have safety wire installed in crucial places such as the oil drain plug and brake calipers. These days, tho, few if any clubs require safety wire, as it`s a pretty big pain to drill thru bolts. Again, check with your local club to see what they need you to do.
- Bring extra fuel and tools. Fill your tank before leaving your house. You could go thru 2 tankfuls of gas during one day at the track, and gas may be very expensive, or unavailable, at the track. Bring a few tools, at least enough to adjust your chain and suspension settings. Bring an air pump and a tire guage.
- Most important: safety equipment. Make sure you bring a good quality DOT approved full face helmet, a set of riding leathers, good gloves, boots and back protector. Don`t skimp on your safety equipment, it could literally save your life. Two piece zip-together leathers might be OK if you`re not sure you`ll ever ride on the track again. One piece racing type leathers are preferable.
Your day at the track will likely begin with a tech inspection and riders meeting. These are mandatory, not optional! Ask an instructor for tire pressure suggestions. Typically you`ll want to run less tire pressure at the track than you do on the street.
Take it easy! Many crashes occur during the first laps of the day, when riders go out on cold tires and push the bike too much. Take it easy your first session. Learn the track, watch where other riders brake, accelerate, and turn. If available, take the new riders class, this will pay huge dividends in your riding, not to mention possibly saving you thousands of rands on repairs to your bike.
I`ve often said that sport bike track days are the most fun you can have with your clothes on. It`s not without risk, of course, but then what worthwhile activity is?
Essential safety riding gear
WHAT YOU WEAR WHEN YOU RIDE
Proper gear is essential to safe riding. Wearing the right clothing always makes the sport more enjoyable and more comfortable, too.
HELMET
Around the block or around the world, it makes sense to leave home with a helmet on your head. IT`S ONE OF THE BEST~ ITEMS OF PROTECTION YOU CAN USE.
Helmets come in all sizes, from extra small (XS) to extra large (XL). There are also helmets for children. When you buy a helmet, make sure it fits properly. Try it on; it should be comfortable to wear, neither too tight nor too loose. Remember, it is going to spend a lot of time on your head.
Always fasten the helmet strap. If the helmet is not secured, it is doing about as much good as if it were on the shelf at home.
Did you know that all adult-sized motorcycle helmets now sold in the world must have a sticker indicating DOT (Department of Transportation) approval which means that the helmet meets certain basic impact standards? Don`t buy a helmet without one; it may not live up to standards. Helmets vary greatly in price and style. Buy one that suits you. Wear it. Fasten it every time you ride the motorcycle.
A good helmet makes motorcycling a lot more pleasurable because it cuts down on the wind noise and greatly reduces rider fatigue. The days of heavy or cumbersome helmets are no more; they`re made of light new materials with terrific designs and colors to choose from.
If you drop your helmet onto a hard surface, or it receives a heavy blow, it is probably time to buy a new one. A motorcycle helmet is designed to absorb the impact of a blow, and a helmet should only do that once.
If in doubt, get a new one.
EYE PROTECTION
Riding with bare eyeballs is a gamble. Your eyes are precious, and it does not take much to injure one.
A fairing on a motorcycle is not eye protection; a bit of sand or tiny piece of glass can whip in behind it and get in your eye.
Proper eye protection means an approved shield on your helmet, a pair of goggles, or shatterproof glasses. Settling for less just doesn`t seem worth the odds.
Make sure your eye protection is clean and unscratched. If you use a tinted lens or shield for riding in the bright sunlight, have a clear one along as well, in case you are riding after dark.
JACKET
Motorcycle jackets are made in many sturdy materials: denim, nylon in its various guises, corduroy, and leather. The hide of a cow, or any other commonly used leather. Offer’s you the most protection when it comes to abrasion. You can buy leather jackets with zippered vents, which are comfortable to wear even in hot weather as they allow a breeze to flow through.
PANTS
These should be made of a thick material, such as denim or cordu¬roy. They resist abrasion and provide protection from the elements. A pair of loose, light cotton pants that flap in the wind is not very good riding gear. We sell a wide range of riding pants, and you can get pants and jacket combinations that zip together.
GLOVES
Always wear gloves. Even on a hot day. The car in front of you may throw up a stone that hits your fingers. Ouch! Also, bare hands are not designed to withstand abrasion or accidental contact with a hot motorcycle part.
BOOTS
Over-the-ankle boots, please. Preferably made of strong leather. Your ankles are very complicated; protect them. A boot with a slippery sole could prove embarrassing when you put your foot down at a greasy Garage. Rubber soles, with a good tread design offer better gripping possibilities.
RAINGEAR
It rains everywhere in this country, some places more than others. Inevitably you will be caught out in the rain. Why not have a good motorcycle rain suit along, with rain-covers for boots and gloves as well? It`s a lot more fun riding in the rain when you`re dry.
HIGH-VISIBILITY GEAR
The better people see you the less likely they are to run into you. Bright, light clothing is preferable to wear than dark clothing.
You can buy Think Bike vests from us, which are designed to make it easier for others to see you.
For nighttime, you can buy clothing that reflects light, and put reflective strips on your helmet and the backs of your boots. Every little bit helps.
Basic info on helmets
With so many brands, styles, and types of motorcycle helmets on the market, it is important that the customer know what they are looking for in a helmet, and what to expect with their purchase. Motorcycle helmet shell construction material varies considerably. At the very low end of the market, expect to see casting seams on the shell of some very basic DOT-approved motorcycle helmets. These helmets tend to have plastic shells. At the very high end of the spectrum are motorcycle helmets with shells made of fiberglass and more exotic materials, such as Kevlar and carbon fiber. Is it necessary for a quality helmet`s shell to feature such materials? From a quality standpoint, there are plenty of SNELL approved motorcycle helmets with plastic or `thermoplastic` shells. In general, the more exotic the shell construction, the more expensive the helmet. Light weight is not the only concern with regard to helmet construction. The inner and outer shells of a motorcycle helmet are engineered to absorb impact and transmit as little impact shock as possible to the wearer. Of course, once a helmet is involved in a crash, it is nearly always time to replace it. The shock absorption qualities of a motorcycle helmet are not renewable. The inner foam lining of the helmet compresses, and that is what provides the majority of the protection. The inner foam lining is also what causes a helmet to `age`. The foam itself dries out over time, and a good rule of thumb is to replace your motorcycle helmet every 5 to 7 years. Storing a helmet in an area free of significant temperature changes, excess humidity, and petrochemical fumes will help extend the life of the helmet.
The helmet liner itself is often made from a hypo-allergenic material. More expensive motorcycle helmets tend to have removable, washable liners. Many top helmet models allow the wearer to customize fit by selecting different size cheekpad and other helmet liner components.
In general, a more expensive motorcycle helmet may have the same SNELL rating as a less expensive model, but it will likely offer better ventilation, be lighter, have more advanced shell construction, feature better quality helmet liner materials, and offer generally better fit and finish. Many helmets now also offer quick-change helmet face shield systems as well.
Trying to size a motorcycle helmet correctly without going to a local shop and trying on a few helmets?
While we have many full-face motorcycle helmets available, it is important to note we also offer plenty of open-face motorcycle helmets, and modular flip up motorcycle helmets as well. Our motocross helmet selection is quite substantial as well. Many people have a hard time finding appropriate helmets for their kids. Too often, kids are wearing adult-sized helmets, which are too big and bulky for most children`s necks to support, even if the helmet appears to fit snugly on the head and around the cheeks. Our selection of youth motorcycle and youth motocross helmets are all specifically designed for kids` heads, and as a bonus usually cost less money than the adult versions.
How to maintain your chain & sprocket
These are items that are essential to the well being of your bike. If not well maintained you will end up forking out a lot of money all too often to have them replaced.
Lubricate them often with a commercial chain spray (every five running hours/once month/every 300km). Spray liberally on the side of the chain that comes into contact with the sprockets. Ensure that you spray both left and the right hand side of the chain. Position a piece of newspaper so that you do not dirty the rear wheel rim as you spray. Use a second piece on the floor to catch any drips. Wait five or ten minutes before you wipe all excess oil off the chain. (This whole process is a lot easier if your motorbike has a centre stand) I find that an old sock slipped over my hand works the best. If your chain has been recently lubricated you only have to spray small sections. Spinning the back tyre will ensure that the rest of the chain is lubricated when it comes into contact with the sprocket and pinion. This is a task that is best done when you return home from your ride while the chain is still warm.
Bike chains are never taut but must be able to sag between 20mm and 40mm at the mid-point between the two sprockets. The sag is used when the bike suspension moves up and down over uneven surfaces.
If your chain is not an endless loop it will use a master link to join the two ends together. Check the condition of this link on a regular basis. Unfortunately replacing it usually requires a special tool to force it to separate.
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The closed end of the master link must precede the open end on its way around (see arrow) |
Cleaning. If your chain becomes very dirty e.g. after a long ride on a dirt road, leave it overnight. The crud becomes hard and is easily brushed off with a small steel wire brush the next morning. If you do want to clean it with a solvent do not use petrol as this dries out the small rubber O rings in the chain. Use a commercial chain cleaner, kerosene or diesel fuel as these are all oil based.
Chains stretch with time no matter how well they are cared for. You will know when the chain has stretched too much when you are able to pull the chain off the back of the rear sprocket. See diagram below
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| When you try this when the chain is new, it will not budge from the sprocket but when it has become stretched, it moves off easily. |
Safety riding tips - IMPORTANT
- Wear protective clothing. Even if only on a short and slow journey, make sure you wear good safety clothing. Should you come off your bike, clothing will make the difference between living, injury or worse. Many new rider clothing have padding and attachments that can help protect the spine, neck, wrists and other crucial body parts.
The use of fluorescent/reflective clothing and accessories (available at our shop) will help you be seen easier by other road users. Weather protective clothing will help you keep warm and dry and in turn help you stay more focused and alert…therefore safer.
The best clothing/accessories will be “CE” marked - An approved helmet that fits comfortably and securely is crucial. Wearing a bright coloured helmet will also help you to be seen. Remember, a loose or unstrapped helmet is pointless. The visor needs to be clean and scratch free. Do not use a tinted visor and/or goggles at night.
- Position yourself safely. Keeping away from the kerbside means that not only can you see down the road better, but that other road users can see you. The kerb area can also have a build up of debris and drains etc. Generally, the middle of the lane is the best location to be.
- Observation. A lot can be learned as to what to expect further down the road and prepare yourself by using observation. For example, you`re riding along and narrowly miss a fresh pile of horse manure! what could be around the corner? A horse and its rider. Dustbins outside houses - good chance of a refuge truck nearby, maybe, just maybe around the next bend.
- “Lifesaver” look. Give a look over your right shoulder especially before carrying out manoeuvres near turnings and roundabouts. Don’t just rely on your mirrors.
- Ride to your limits. If you’re in a group, don’t force yourself to keep up with the pack. They may know the roads better, or their centre of gravity may be different so handling may vary to your bike. There could be many reasons. You can easily get yourself in a position of no return if you’re not careful. Confirm a finishing location before you set off so you can all meet up safely if separated on the road.
• Maintenance. We all know that you need to keep your bike, helmet and clothing in good serviceable condition, but even simple pre ride checks of your bike can help save a disaster. Tyre pressures, brake pipes, loose objects, clean lights,etc, by getting into a habit of checking your bike equipment could save a lot of problems. If you are a season rider, areas such as tyres and brake pipes can deteriorate just by months of non use over the winter/autumn time.
• Knowing others limits. Drivers in many cases are just unaware of the incredible acceleration a motorbike can have. One look in their mirrort there’s nothing, within a second your there, maybe even overtaking.
When approaching vehicles. ALWAYS give them the benefit of the doubt that they may not have seen you and therefore expect the unexpected.
• Information from others. Chat to other riders as they may be able to give you valuable advice about motorcycling and tips on the roads you ride. Also websites, such as this one, can keep you updated on road issues and help you get the most out of enjoying your 2 wheeler.
Quick Tips for Safer Riding
Give yourself space
People driving cars often just don’t see motorcycles. Even when drivers do see you, chances are they’ve never been on a motorcycle and can’t properly judge your speed.
Be visible
• Remember that motorists often have trouble seeing motorcycles and reacting in time.
• Make sure your headlight works and is on day and night.
• Use reflective strips or decals on your clothing and on your motorcycle.
• Be aware of the blind spots cars and trucks have.
• Flash your brake light when you are slowing down and before stopping.
• If a motorist doesn’t see you, don’t be afraid to use your horn.
Dress for safety
• Wear a quality helmet and eye protection.
• Wear bright clothing and a light-coloured helmet.
• Wear leather or other thick, protective clothing.
• Choose long sleeves and pants, over-the-ankle boots, and gloves.
• Remember – the only thing between you and the road is your protective gear.
Use your head
• Constantly search the road for changing conditions.
• Give yourself space and time to respond to other motorists’ actions.
• Give other motorists time and space to respond to you.
• Use lane positioning to be seen; ride in the part of a lane where you are most visible.
• Watch for turning vehicles.
• Signal your next move in advance.
• Avoid weaving between lanes.
• Pretend you’re invisible, and ride extra defensively.
• Don`t ride when you are tired or under the influence of alcohol or other drugs.
• Know and follow the rules of the road.
• Stay within the speed limit.
Know your bike and how to use it
• Get formal training and take refresher courses.
Oh, No! It`s Raining! Hints & Tips for Riding in the Rain
In case luck is not on your side, here are some tips on how to prepare for riding in the rain and to keep yourself as dry and as safe as possible without having to succumb to driving to work in a cage. Let`s begin!
Gear - In an ideal situation, you`ll have invested in some all weather riding gear including waterproof boots and if that`s the case then good for you! The minimum investment you should have on hand when it comes to rain gear is waterproof gloves that fasten securely around your wrist. Not only do gloves keep your hands dry during a rainstorm, but they`ll also help keep them warm too. Another option is purchasing a rain suit to wear over your leathers if you don`t have all weather gear. Waterproof your boots prior to riding in the rain as an extra precaution. However if you still don`t want to spend a few extra rands on a rain suit, the low-cost option is to wear a couple of large refuge bags over your clothing and plastic grocery bags inside your boots wrapped around your socks to help with rain-proofing yourself. Riding in the rain is not fun, but it`s even worse if you get soaked.
Tires - Tires with a good tread pattern on them are the safest type to use when it`s raining. This is because, there`s more rubber to grip the slippery road. Still, even with decent tread on the tires, pushing your two-wheeler to the limits in the rain, be it a drizzle or a downpour, is not advised unless you want to hydroplane or worse yet, lay your bike down in front of oncoming traffic.
Wait - Oil and grease on the road tends to loosen up and sit on the surface during the start of the rain, so allow a solid 15 minutes or so for cars to splash the excess muck off onto the side of the street. Otherwise, you`re just asking for trouble!
Avoidances - Steer clear of the painted lines on streets and hi-ways because they become extremely slick when wet. Common sense should encourage you to ride in the path of the tire trails left by vehicles in front of you since it will be the area on the road with the least amount of water on it. Manhole covers and railroad tracks are very slick when wet too. Avoid them if at all possible, but if you must cross over them, heed with caution keeping a steady throttle.
Visor Care - To help eliminate rain from building up on your visor and impairing your vision, there are a few products on the market you can apply prior to riding such as Wynns See Thru . This product and products like it encourage the water to roll and bounce right off of the visor. Your visor may also indeed become foggy while riding in the rain and although there are products like Holts Anti Mist on the market to help prevent that too, just cracking your visor open a smidge every now and again will help quickly eliminate this problem.
Though motorcycle riders generally avoid riding in the rain at all costs for obvious reasons, there is still that rare occasion that may sneak up on you and leave you in a compromising situation. Be prepared and alert so that you`ll still be around to ride on future dry weather days as well!
FIRST TIME RIDERS
Motorcycle Size
The size of the first bike you buy is very important. No matter what kind of physical shape you are in or how good of an athlete you are, buying a big, heavyweight motorcycle is a mistake. Large motorcycles are harder to operate. Not only will you damage the bike as a result of falling off, but you will also likely injure yourself.
You should always start off with a simple, inexpensive bike that will allow you to learn how to ride without getting hurt and without the worries of damaging the bike. Just make sure that the bike is in good running condition, has functioning brakes and tires and is insured.
You`ll need lots of practice before you go out on the open road with traffic. Hopefully no major spills will occur. However, if you do fall, it is not as drastic crashing on a R10 000 bike as opposed to a R100 000+ motorcycle Also, once you become a more experienced rider and are ready to purchase a newer, nicer bike, you will likely have no problem selling your `practice` bike for a price similar to what you paid, to someone in a comparable situation that you were previously in.
Buying Motorcycle Clothing
When saving money for your first bike, make sure you calculate the cost of buying motorcycle apparel and a good helmet. It is very likely that you will wind up paying more for your gear than your first bike....but it will be worth every penny! The difference between average apparel and good apparel can be your life!
Motorcycle clothing is for protection, safety and comfort. The most important thing that needs protecting is your head by wearing a goog quality helmet at all times, even for a quick ride around the block. However, even if you are the most experienced rider, wearing a helmet is a must! You can not control other drivers. Worst case scenario, someone plows into you while you are riding. Do you think the outcome will be better if you are wearing a helmet, or not?
Gloves are another must for first time riders. If you fall, and you likely will, your hands are going to hit the ground first. Let the gloves absorb the impact and road rash, not your hands.
You should also consider wearing full-length motorcycle boots. These types of boots will help limit the severity of foot and leg injuries if you fall. They will also add an inch or so to your height, allowing you to touch the ground with your feet when you are stopped.
A good leather jacket is another option. A jacket with vents is a smart choice. During the summer you can open the vents for circulation, and a liner can be used during the winter to retain your body heat.
ATV Tyre selection
ATV Tyre Selection
The selection of a new set of ATV tyres for your quad should not
be a difficult experience if you understand the differences between
the tyre types, thread patterns and sizes.
There are five main points to look for when choosing a new set of tyres as
selecting the wrong tyres can decrease the performance which could alter
the functionality of the quad thereby causing you to have an accident, alter
your fuel economy and affect the speed and handling of the quad.
Obviously the economics is also a serious factor in the selection of tyres as the
most expensive and well known brand is not always the best option for you and
you will end up paying far more for a tyre than necessary for the activity that you require the tyre for.
By paying a high fee for a brand just because it is a well known brand but not using it too its full potential is just wasting valuable money which could be used accessorizing or modifying your quad for better performance.
First off you have to be really honest with yourself and purchase according to your budget and your ability which dictates what type of tyre will suit the activities you use your quad for not buying what other riders are buying for the sake of a brand name.
Tread Pattern
The type of terrain you traverse should be one of the primary factors when selecting your tyres.
There are basically four different types of tyres for ATV’s:
Mud Tyres - characterised by their inside to outside angled tread pattern as mud tyres are directional tyres that are designed to work in mud. Mud tyres work well for what they are designed for but on other types of terrain they are not suitable.
A medium to aggressive mud terrain tyre would work well in most types of mud regions. There are 3 flaws to mud tyres one must consider:- The tread life of the tyre will not last if you drive anywhere else but mud like hard packed terrain and tarmac surfaces.
- The aggressive tread pattern does not offer the optimum ride quality as a trail tyre.
- Mud tyres due to their directional, medium tread pattern offer very little lateral stability when the ATV is side hilling an obstacle.
Sand Tyres - these tyres are known for their paddle or scoop like tread patterns. The front tyres have typically only one or two raised ribs running down the centre of the tyre and the rears have parallel running scoops. This is the only design which provides the traction necessary to traverse real sandy areas. Sand tyres only have one function and that is for use in sand. Attempting to use these tyres on other surfaces will result in the break up of the tyres with even chunks of the paddles breaking off and the tyres subsequently destroyed very quickly.
Trail or All Terrain Tyres - are designed to handle multiple terrain environments. There are many different tread patterns available in the all terrain tyre market with each manufacturer claiming the best in design for optimum versatility, handling and grip.
The tread invariably are between 4mm-6mm deep and have typically overlapping tread pattern with smaller spacing between the tread lugs. Therefore if your activities demand a variety of terrain surfaces you should try and purchase a set with aggressive tread pattern and a deeper lug to ensure you have good grip and will experience less punctures with the deeper lug profile. This selection should also ensure a good self cleaning capability which is important over these types of terrain environments.
Race Tyres - like specialised mud and sand tyres are designed and engineered for a very specific segment of the ATV market primarily for medium to hard packed circuit and enduro surfaces. They are easily identified by their knobbly flat top construction as they are designed for the high speed, high impact environment. There are many variations of tread patterns for this industry and most professional race pilots will have a variety of tread types, sizes and compound variations to suit the different race circuits and enduro terrains. There are new types of compounds available and different ply`s as the weight and compound seriously effect`s the speed, traction and overall handling of the race ATV.
Tyre Size
- Smaller Diameter - a smaller diameter race tyre will decrease the overall speed and increase the RPM of the engine. Therefore it will increase hole-shot speed but will decrease top-end speed. Due to the high RPM racing on too small a tyre can stress a number of components e.g. engine, transmission, axles etc. If you are prepared to constantly repair and maintain your race quad then the smaller diameter is obviously the better option. The smaller the diameter the less flexible but the more firmer the ride.
- Larger Diameter - a larger diameter race tyre will increase overall speed and decrease engine RPM therefore it will decrease hole-shot speed but increase top end speed. Large diameter race tyres will provide a softer and more flexible ride. Installing too large a tyre however can stress a number of components e.g. engine, transmission and axle because of the additional rolling mass and the decreased RPM of the tyre which can also overheat your engine as it has too work so much harder to turn the larger heavier tyre. Due to the extra rolling mass your braking efficiency will be diminished.
- Wider Tyre - this will increase the amount of tread on the ground, thereby increasing traction particularly laterally. Conversely too wide a tyre, like too tall a tyre, will increase the amount of rolling mass and diminish braking ability and stress the drive train. Selecting too wide a tyre can cause problems with suspension and steering components as tyres will start touching and rubbing against parts of your quad that it should not.
- Narrow Tyre - this will decrease the amount of tread on the ground, which is not a good thing although serious mud riders claim that the narrow tyres sink through the mud and make contact with the firm ground below giving the required traction to get out of difficult mud areas. However other mud riders claim the wider the tyre the better as the wide tyres float and skip across the mud, your personal choice.
- Side Wall Height - ATV tyre manufacturers have recently started producing tyres that will accept 12 inch and 14 inch rims with the advent of the larger ATV and UTV markets. Tyre diameter and height has it`s pros and cons so does side wall height as a short wall tyre of the same overall tyre height means that the rim size is also taller. This creates greater ground clearance but produces less flex than a taller side wall which can be good or bad depending upon the type of enduro you are participating in. A taller side wall tyre will produce far more flex which is great for more technical enduros but bad for high speed. Taller side walls are more susceptible to punctures.
Flat or Round Tyres
This is a common issue that is overlooked by the ATV tyre purchaser, basically all sport quads come with flat top tyres and utility quads come with round top tyres. A flat top tyre will put more tread on the ground and is typically designed for medium to hard packed terrains allowing the rider to conduct power slides in a more controlled environment. This type of tyre also provides superior side wall stability so great for the sport quads. In contrast a round top tyre will typically roll under itself during hard cornering especially on hard packed terrains. A round top tyre is designed for more versatility and performs better in softer terrains and provides a softer ride so a good rule of thumb is use these tyres for the utility type ATV`s and UTV side by sides.
Tyre Construction – Ply Rating and Radial or Bias Ply
All tyres are constructed with a special combination of polymers with each manufacturer using a secret ratio therefore one must look out for the ply rating and the belt type construction as each aspect has an affect on the tyres stability, pliability and handling characteristics.
- Ply Rating - in the old days a tyres construction was rated by the number of plies within the carcass and this system was used when less durable material (traditional rubber) was used to create the tyre carcass because the material was less durable it took more layers of bonded and fused material to increase the tyres strength and longevity. Nowadays with the new technologies available a tyre can be constructed with only a few (2 or 3) plies of material, yet has the same strength and longevity of a 6 or 7 ply tyre. Hence if a dealer is trying to sell you a specific tyre at a certain price based on the ply rating as opposed to any other feature of the tyre then you must know something is up as a new 6 ply rated tyre may only be constructed with only two or three layers as opposed to 6 layers.
- Radial versus Bias Ply - the majority of ATV tyres are bias ply which are constructed utilizing plies or belts typically rubber coated plies composed of textile cords usually nylon that run diagonally around 30degrees from one bead to the next. One ply is set on a bias in one direction and successive plies are set alternately in opposing directions crossing each other. Bias tyres are typically less flexible than radial tyres but are tougher in construction. Radial tyres are new to the ATV market and are constructed in two parts first is a single layer of rubber coated steel cables that arch from one bead to the other to form the tyre casing. Second numerous rubber coated steel belts are placed in the crown under the tread to form a strong stabilizing unit which makes the tyre more flexible which in turn reduces rolling resistance and improves fuel economy. Bias versus radial well bias is the proven manufacturing process and until the radials prove themselves we advise sticking with the bias tyres.
Tyre Sizes Explained
We still use the old method of tyre sizing for the ATV market and it is very simple all tyres are still measured in inches therefore a 20*11.00-9 tyre would be 20 inches in overall height (from the ground to the top of the tyre) the second part 11 inches is the overall width of the tyre and the 9 inches is the rim diameter of the tyre.
Ugly fish eyewear
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Ugly Fish Eyewear |
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The Ugly Fish range of eyewear from Australia should be your first choice for safety glasses. The range is exceptionally hardworking and designed with the comfort and safety of your eyes in mind. Suitable not only for riding, but also all other adventure sports. TR-90 Frame The TR-90 Frames is the ultimate choice when the best is what you demand. It is perfectly suited to all climates hot or cold making it the ideal choice for sport enthusiasts. Being lightweight and highly flexible is what makes TR-90 frames so comfortable for all day wear. TR-90 Frames have the following features which allow them to be IMPACT RESISTANT and meet the European Safety Standard I.S. EN 1938-1999 Personal Eye Protection - Goggles for Motorcycle and Moped Users.
Polycarbonate Decentred Safety (PC-DS) Lenz The PC-DS lenses are the the perfect match for the TR-90 frames and the only choice when building superior protective sports eyewear. Polycarbonate (PC) lenses are safe because they aren`t brittle. They won`t shatter if they come into contact with flying objects traveling at high speeds with high impact, or upon impact during a collision or fall. This level of impact resistance assures you the protection you need, knowing that the lens will not shatter into pieces upon impact and thus increase chances of injury to your eyes or face. Since the risk of eye damage is reduced or eliminated, your performance is enhanced due to raised confidence in your safety, allowing you to focus on the task ahead. Ugly Fish PC lenses are distortion free and provide you with high optical clarity. Clear, sharp vision is a vital ingredient in sports performance, such as participating in motorcycle riding, jet skiing, and cycling where less than 20/20 vision is counter productive. Advantages of PC-DS lenses:
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